Due to the chemical nature of the soapmaking process, the final color results you may achieve could be very surprising. Types of oils, herbs, alkalinity, heat, light and amount of colorant all contribute to the variance in the final outcome of your color. Alkanet Root will color a superfatted soap which is less alkanine, a nice mauve to 
purple, while the same root will color soap with a zero lye discount, a pleasant blue. For the sake of continuity, the colorants we will be discussing in this article are all as applied to superfatted soaps. 

If you are unsure of a colorant, it is always a good idea to test it out first. It does take a bit of time, but will eliminate any nasty surprises and allow you to realize that blueberries do not make blue, and beet root will not always make red. 

Testing a colorant is done in three ways. 
  1. Testing in Lye/Water Solution 
  2. Testing in Oils 
  3. Testing in Final Soap Batch 

Natural colors are achieved by dissolving the natural material in lye solution or oil mixtures. Each solution may cause a different color reaction. To test your colorant in a lye solution, dissolve about a teaspoon of lye into 3 tablespoons of distilled water. Slowly add the plant material. Powdered plant material yields a greater color than chopped or whole plant material. In a notebook, jot down the amount of plant matter used, what type of plant matter was tested, the resulting color hue, darkness and depth. 

To test your colorant in oils, heat a small amount of olive oil. Add your plant material and stir. Again, record the results in a notebook. If you are saying to yourself, 'is a notebook really necessary?' The answer is 'yes!'. You may have a wonderful memory, however 2 months from now when you want to achieve an exact shade of green, you will be happy to refer to your notes. 

Depending on your results from your first two tests, you may be ready to test your colorant in soap. Prepare your standard recipe using the above coloring method that provided the most pleasing results (oil or lye). Try a small one pound recipe at first, and keep track of the amount of coloring you used. Take notes on the color after 24 hours, 
and again after your soap is finished curing. If you are pleased with the final soap color, you can then modify your final recipe, multiplying the amount of original colorant times each pound of oils used. 

Use the following as a quick color guide when 'going natural'. 

Browns: Spices such as cinnamon or cocoa can add not only an earthy brown color to your soaps, but also an interesting speckled texture, and of course will add to the final aroma. Avoid using too much cinnamon as it can be abrasive and sensitizing. Both cinnamon and cocoa can be added at light trace. Elderberries steeped in lye solution for at least an hour, yield a caramel colored soap, while powdered comfrey root not only is used for healing, but also will turn your soap a 'cafe au lait' color. Add the comfrey at light trace. 

Greens: Chlorophyll, henna, kelp, and spirulina will all color your soaps a different shade of green. Liquid chlorophyll can be used to achieve a pale green if a small amount is added at light trace. If you wish to achieve a deeper green, dissolve your lye directly into your chlorophyll, instead of water, or substitute the chlorophyll for part of your water in the lye solution. Powdered Henna leaves dissolved into the lye solution will give your soaps a nice khaki green coloring. You will only need about a tablespoon for a five pound batch. Kelp and Spirulina are both forms of seaweed and can be added at light trace. For green specks within your soap, try either Nori, or dried parsley or tarragon - the latter contributing to a lovely scent as well. 

Yellows: Turmeric, Calendula and Annato all contribute various shades of yellows to your soaps. The spice, tumeric, is can be added to your lye mixture, or put in at final trace for color and texture. A small amount will color your soap a yellow ochre color. Calendula is known for both it's healing abilities and it's beauty in a finished bar of soap. While powdered calendula can be used, I recommend you try infusing some whole calendula petals in olive oil for both a buttery yellow color and beautiful golden petals. Leave the petals in your soap for a lovely golden contrast. Annato seeds can be found in the ethnic section in your grocery store. Steep the seeds in warm oil for about 15 minutes, then strain. The annato will turn your soap a warm yellow-orange and is a very nice addition to citrus scented soaps. 

Peach: Paprika and Cayenne Pepper added at trace will both yield a peachy bar. Add just a tiny amount of either spice, as too much will be abrasive and sensitizing. 

Reds/Purple: Alkanet Root will color soaps from mauve, to lavender, to blue depending on the PH of your final bar. A superfatted bar with a PH of 8, should turn a pleasant lavender color. Your coloring will change as the bar cures. You can purchase powdered alkanet root. Infuse this into warm olive oil and replace one cup of your oils, with this strained alkanet oil. Madder root will produce a pretty 
antique rose color. Purchase the cut and sifted root and grind this into a fine powder. Add about 1 1/2 Tablespoons of the ground powder to your lye solution for five pounds of soap. Powdered rose hips also produce a rosey tan color and add nice healing properties to your 
soap as well. Add about 2 tablespoons per five pound batch at trace. 

Many people are sensitive to synthetic colorants, dyes and fragrances. By balancing your natural colorants with healing herbs, you will have soaps that will shine aesthetically, smell wonderfully, and be healthy products for your family and customers to use over and over again.