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I dispatched an express this
morning to Captain Lewis at St. Louis. All our provisions,
goods, and equipage on board of a boat of 22 oars [party], a large pirogue
of 71 oars [in which 8 French], a second pirogue of 6 oars [soldiers],
complete with sails, &c. Men completed with powder cartridges and 100
balls each, all in health and readiness to set out. (The words and phrases
in brackets did not appear in the original journals. They represent additions
or corrections made by several people between 1806 and the present, including
Clark himself, who edited the journals before the first publication. Words
and phrases in parentheses were in parentheses in the journals as originally
written.) Boats and everything complete, with the necessary stores of provisions
and such articles of merchandise as we thought ourselves authorized to
procure-though not as much as I think necessary for the multitude of Indians
through which we must pass on our road across the continent.
Rained the fore part of the day.
I determined to go as far as St. Charles, a French village seven
leagues up the Missouri, and wait at that place until Captain
Lewis could finish the business which he was obliged to attend to at
St. Louis,, and join me by land from that place (24 miles). I calculated
that if any alterations in the loading of the vessels or other changes
were necessary, they might be made at St. Charles.
I set out at 4 o'clock, P.M.,
in the presence of many of the neighboring inhabitants and proceeded under
a gentle breeze up the Missouri to the upper point of the first
island, 4 miles, and camped on the island.
It rained during the greater
part of last night and continued until 7 o'clock A.M., after which the
party proceeded. The barge ran foul there several times on logs, and in
one instance it was with much difficulty they could get her off. Happily
no injury was sustained, though the barge was several minutes in imminent
danger. This was caused by her being too heavily laden in the stern. Persons
accustomed to the navigation of the Missouri, and the Mississippi
also, below the mouth of this river, uniformly take the precaution to load
their vessels heaviest in the bow when they ascend the stream, in order
to avoid the danger incident to running foul of the concealed timber, which
lies in great quantities in the beds of these rivers.
Note: The commanding officer is fully assured that
every man of his detachment will have a true respect for his own dignity
and not make it necessary for him to leave St. Charles for a more
retired situation [The orderly book was a record kept in each command of
all written orders].
A fair day. Compelled to punish
for misconduct. Several Kickapoo Indians visit me today. George Drouilliard
arrived.
A sergeant and four men of the
party destined for the Missouri Expedition will convene at 11 o'clock today
on the quarterdeck of the boat and form themselves into a court-martial,
to hear and determine (in behalf of the captain), the evidences adduced
against William Warner & Hugh Hall, for being absent
last night without leave, contrary to orders; and John Collins,
first for being absent without leave; second, for behaving in an unbecoming
manner at the ball last night; third, for speaking in a language last night
after his return tending to bring into disrespect the orders of the commanding
officer.
Set
out at half-past three o'clock, under three cheers from the gentlemen on
the bank, and proceeded to the head of the island (which is situated on
the starboard side), three miles. We set out early, ran on a log,
and were detained one hour, proceeded the course of last night two miles
to the mouth of a creek on the starboard side, called Osage Woman's
River, about 30 yards wide, opposite a large island and a [American]
settlement. On this creek 30 or 40 families are settled.
Stopped about one mile above
for Captain Lewis, who had ascended the cliff which is at said cave,
three hundred feet high, hanging over the waters. The water excessively
swift today. We encamped below a small island in the middle of the river.
Sent out two hunters. One killed a deer.
Camped at the mouth of a creek
called Riviere la Charrette, above a small French village of seven
houses and as many families settled at this place to be convenient to hunt
and trade with the Indians. Here we met M. Loisel, immediately down
from the Cedar Island, in the country of the Sioux, 400 leagues
up. He gave us a good deal of information.
At 1 o'clock we brought to, two
chaussies, one loaded with furs and peltries, the other with buffalo grease
and tallow. We purchased 300 pounds of grease; and, finding that old Mr.
Dorion was of the party, we questioned him until it was too late to
go further.
Concluding to take old Mr.
Dorion back as far as the Sioux nation, with a view to get some of
their chiefs to visit the President of the United States-this man being
a very confidential friend of those people, he having resided with the
nation twenty-odd years.
George Drouilliard, our
hunter, and one man came in with two deer and a bear, also a young horse
they had found in the prairie. This horse had been in the prairie a long
time and is fat. I suppose he has been left by some war party against the
Osages. The party is much afflicted with boils, and several have the dysentery.
Ordered.-A court-martial will
sit this day at 11 o'clock, to consist of five members, for the trial of
John Collins and Hugh Hall, confined on charges exhibited
against them by Sergeant Floyd, agreeable to the Articles of War....
John Collins charged with getting drunk on his post this morning
out of whiskey put under his charge as sentinel, and for suffering Hugh
Hall to draw whiskey out of the said barrel intended for the party.
To this charge the prisoner pleaded
"not guilty."
The court, after mature deliberation
on the evidence adduced, &c., are of opinion the prisoner is guilty
of the charge exhibited against him, and do therefore sentence him to receive
one hundred lashes on his bare back.
Hugh Hall was brought
before the court charged with taking whiskey out of a keg this morning,
which whiskey was stored on the bank (and under the charge of the guard),
contrary to all order, rule, or regulation.
To this charge the prisoner pleaded
guilty.
The court find the prisoner guilty
and sentence him to receive fifty lashes on his bare back.
Ushered in the day by a discharge
of one shot from our bow piece, proceeded on, passed the mouth of a bayou
leading from a large lake on the S.S., which has the appearance of being
once the bend of the river, and reaches parallel for several miles. We
came to on the L.S. to refresh ourselves [the abbreviation "S.S." stands
for "starboard," or the right-hand side when one is facing forward on a
ship. "L.S." means "larboard," or left-hand side]. Joseph Fields
got bitten by a snake, and was quickly doctored with bark by Captain
Lewis.
We passed a creek twelve yards
wide, on the L.S., coming out of an extensive prairie reaching within two
hundred yards of the river. As this creek has no name, and this being the
Fourth of July, the day of the Independence of the United States, we called
it "Fourth of July 1804 Creek." We dined on corn. Captain Lewis
walked on shore above this creek and discovered a high mound from the top
of which he had an extensive view. Three paths came together at the mound.
We saw great numbers of goslings today which were nearly grown. The lake
is clear and contains great quantities of fish and geese and goslings.
This induced me to call it Gosling Lake. A small creek and several
springs run into the lake on the east side from the hills. The land on
that side is very good.
Set out early. Passed some swift
water which obliged us to draw up by ropes. A sand bar at the point, opposite
a beautiful prairie on the S. side, called St. Michael. Those prairies
on the river have very much the appearance of farms from the river, divided
by narrow strips of woodland, which woodland is situated on the runs leading
to the river. Passed a bluff of yellow clay above the prairie. Saw a large
rat on the bank. Killed a wolf. One man very sick-struck with the sun.
Captain Lewis bled him and gave niter, which has revived him much.
Set out early. Passed a small
creek and two small islands on the S.S. Five men sick today with violent
headache, &c. We made some arrangements as to provisions and messes.
Came to for dinner at the lower point of a very large island situated near
the S.S. After a delay of two hours we passed a narrow channel 45 to 80
yards wide five miles to the mouth of Nodaway River.
In order to ensure a prudent
and regular use of all provisions issued to the crew of the bateaux in
future, as also to provide for the equal distribution of the same among
the individuals of the several messes, the commanding officers do appoint
the following persons to receive, cook, and take charge of the provisions
which may from time to time be issued to their respective messes, viz.,
John B. Thompson to Sergeant Floyd's mess, William Warner
to Sergeant Ordway's mess, and John Collins to Sergeant
Pryor's mess.
These Superintendents of Provision
are held immediately responsible to the commanding officers for a judicious
consumption of the provision which they receive; they are to cook the same
for their several messes in due time, and in such manner as is most wholesome
and best calculated to afford the greatest proportion of nutriment; in
their mode of cooking they are to exercise their own judgment. They shall
also point out what part, and what proportion of the mess provisions are
to be consumed at each stated meal, i.e., morning, noon, and night. Nor
is any man at any time to take or consume any part of the mess provisions
without the privity, knowledge, and consent of the superintendent. The
superintendent is also held responsible for all the cooking utensils of
his mess. In consideration of the duties imposed by this order on Thompson,
Warner, and Collins, they will in future be exempt from guard
duty, though they will still be held on the roster for that duty, and their
regular tour shall be performed by someone of their respective messes;
they are exempted also from pitching the tents of the mess, collecting
firewood, and forks, poles, &c. for cooking and drying such fresh meat
as may be furnished them; those duties are to be also performed by the
other members of the mess.
One man sent back to the river
we passed last night to blaze a tree with a view to notify the party on
shore of our passing. Set out and passed the head of the island which was
situated opposite to our camp last night-a sand bar at the head. Opposite
this island a creek or bayou comes in from a large pond on the starboard
side. As our flanking party saw great numbers of pike in this pond, I have
laid it down with that name annexed. At 8 o'clock the wind shifted from
the N.E. to the S.W. and it commenced raining. At six miles, passed the
mouth of the creek on the L.S. called Montain's Creek. About two
miles above are some cabins where our bowman and several Frenchmen camped
two years ago. Passed an island on the S.S. in a bend of the river opposite
some cliffs on the L.S. The wind shifted to the N.W. opposite this island,
and on the L. side Wolf River comes in. This river is about 60 yards
wide and heads with the waters of the Kansas, and is navigable for
pirogues "some distance up." Camped at a point on the L.S. opposite the
head of the island. Our party was encamped on the opposite side. Their
not answering our signals caused us to suspect the persons camped opposite
to us were a war party of Sioux. We fired the bow piece to alarm the party
on shore, all prepared to oppose if attacked.
Set out early this morning and
crossed the river with a view to see who the party was that camped on the
other side. We soon discovered them to be our men. Proceeded on past a
prairie on the L.S. at 4 miles. Passed a creek L.S. called Pape's Creek
after a man who killed himself at its mouth. This creek is 15 yards wide.
Dined on an island called Solomon's Island. Delayed three hours
on this island to recruit the men. Opposite on the L.S. is a beautiful
bottom plain of about 2,000 acres covered with wild rye and potatoes (ground
apple), intermixed with the grass.
Set out early. Passed a willow
island in a bend on the S.S. Back of this island a creek comes in, called
by the Indians Tarkio. I went on shore above this creek and walked
up parallel with the river about half a mile distant. The bottom I found
low and subject to overflow. Still further out, the undergrowth and vines
were so thick that I could not get through with ease. After walking about
three or four miles, I observed a fresh horse track; where he had been
feeding I turned my course to the river and pursued the track, and found
him on a sand beach. This horse probably had been left by some party of
Ottawas, hunters who wintered or hunted in this quarter last fall or winter.
I joined the party on a large sand island immediately opposite the mouth
of Nemaha River, at which place they had camped. This island is
sand, about half of it covered with small willows of two different kinds,
one narrow and the other a broad leaf. Several hunters sent out today on
both sides of the river. Seven deer killed today-Drouilliard killed
six of them. Made some lunar observations this evening.
Concluded to delay here today
with a view of taking equal altitudes and making observations as well as
refreshing our men, who are much fatigued. After an early breakfast I,
with five men in a pirogue, ascended the riverNemaha about three
miles to the mouth of a small creek on the lower side. Here I got out of
the pirogue. After going to several small mounds in a level plain, I ascended
a hill on the lower side. On this hill, several artificial mounds were
raised; from the top of the highest of those mounds I had an extensive
view of the surrounding plains, which afforded one of the most pleasing
prospects I ever beheld: under me a beautiful river of clear water about
80 yards wide, meandering through a level and extensive meadow, as far
as I could see-the prospect much enlivened by the few trees and shrubs
which border the bank of the river, and the creeks and runs falling into
it. The bottom land is covered with grass about 41/2 feet high, and appears
as level as a smooth surface. The second bottom [the upper land] is also
covered with grass and rich weeds and flowers, interspersed with copses
of the Osage plum, on the rising lands. Small groves of trees are seen,
with numbers of grapes and a wild cherry resembling the common wild cherry,
only larger, and growing on a small bush on the tops of those hills in
every direction. I observed artificial mounds (or as I may more justly
term graves) which to me is a EM evidence of this country being once thickly
settled. (The Indians of the Missouris still keep up the custom of burying
their dead on high ground.) After a ramble of about two miles, I returned
to the pirogue and descended down the river. Gathered some grapes, nearly
ripe. On a sandstone bluff about 1/4 of a mile from its mouth on the lower
side, I observed some Indian marks. Went to the rock which jutted over
the water and marked my name 8 and the day of the month and year. Tried
a man for sleeping on his post, and inspected the arms, ammunition, &c.,
of the party. Found all complete. Took some lunar observations. Three deer
killed today.
A court-martial consisting of
the two commanding officers will convene this day at one o'clock, P.M.,
for the trial of such prisoners as may be brought before them. One of the
court will act as judge advocate.
The commanding officers, Captains
M. Lewis and W. Clark, constituted themselves a court-martial
for the trial of such prisoners as are guilty of capital crimes, and under
the rules and articles of war punishable by death.
Alexander Willard was brought
forward, charged with "lying down and sleeping on his post while a sentinel,
on the night of the 11th instant." (By John Ordway, sergeant of
the guard.)
To this charge the prisoner pleads
guilty of lying down, and not guilty of going to sleep.
The court, after duly considering
the evidence adduced, are of the opinion that the prisoner Alexander Willard
is guilty of every part of the charge exhibited against him. It being a
breach of the rules and articles of war (as well as tending to the probable
destruction of the party) do sentence him to receive one hundred lashes
on his bare back, at four different times in equal proportion; and order
that the punishment commence this evening at sunset, and continue to be
inflicted, by the guard, every evening until completed.
Set out at sunrise, and proceeded
on under a gentle breeze. At two miles, passed the mouth of a small river
on the S.S. called by the Indians Tarkio. A channel running out
of the river three miles above (which is now filled up with sand) runs
into this creek, and formed an island, called St. Josephs. Several
sand bars parallel to each other above. In the first bend to the left is
situated a beautiful and extensive plain, covered with grass resembling
timothy, except the seed which resembles flaxseed. This plain also abounds
in grapes of different kinds, some nearly ripe. I killed two goslings nearly
grown. Several others killed and caught on shore, also one old goose with
pinfeathers. She could not fly. At about 12 miles, passed an island situated
in a bend on the S.S.-above this island is a large sand bar covered with
willows. The wind from the south. Camped on a large sand bar making out
from the L side, opposite a high, handsome prairie, the hills about 4 or
5 miles on starboard side.
Some hard showers of rain this
morning prevented our setting out until seven o'clock. At half-past seven,
the atmosphere became suddenly darkened by a black and dismal-looking cloud.
At the time we were in a situation not to be bettered, near the upper point
of the sand island, on which we lay, and [on] the opposite shore, the bank
was falling in and lined with snags as far as we could see down. In this
situation the storm, which passed over an open plain from the N.E., struck
the oar boat on the starboard quarter, and would have thrown her up on
the sand island dashed to pieces in an instant, had not the party leaped
out on the leeward side, and kept her off with the assistance of the anchor
and cable, until the storm was over. The waves washed over her windward
side and she must have filled with water if the lockers, which are covered
with tarpaulins, had not thrown off the water and prevented any quantity
getting into the bilge of the boat. In this situation we continued about
40 minutes, when the storm suddenly ceased and the river became instantaneously
as smooth as glass.
The two pirogues, during this
storm, were in a similar situation with the boat about half a mile above.
The wind shifted to the S.E., and we sailed up past a small island situated
on the S.S., and dined, and continued two hours, men examined their arms.
About a mile above this island we passed a small trading fort on the S.S.,
where Mr. Bennet of St. Louis traded with the Otos and Pawnees
two years. I went on shore to shoot some elk on a sand bar to the L.S.
I fired at one but did not get him. Several men unwell with boils, felons,
&c. The river falls a little.
A heavy fog this morning prevented
our setting out before seven o'clock. At nine I took two men and walked
on the L.S. I crossed three beautiful streams of running water heading
into the prairies. On those streams the land very fine, covered with pea
vine and rich weed. The high prairies are also good land, covered with
grass, entirely void of timber, except what grows on the water. I proceeded
on through those prairies several miles to the mouth of a large creek on
the L.S. called Little Nemaha. This is a small river.
A fair morning. Set a party to
look for timber for oars; two parties to hunt. At eleven o'clock sent off
George Drouilliard and Peter Cruzat with some tobacco to
invite the Otos if at their town, and Pawnees if they saw them, to come
and talk with us at our camp, &c., &c. (At this season, the Indians
on this river are in the prairies hunting the buffalo, but some signs of
hunters near this place and the plains being on fire near their towns induce
a belief that they-this nation- have returned to get some green corn or
roasting ears.) Raised a staff, sunned and dried our provisions, &c.
I commence copying a map of the river below to send to the President, United
States. Five deer killed today. One man with a tumor 2 on his breast. Prepared
our camp. The men put their arms in order. Wind hard this afternoon from
the N.W.
A fair day. The wind blows hard
from the south. The breezes, which are very frequent in this part of theMissouri,
are cool and refreshing. Several hunters out today, but, as game of all
kinds is scarce, only two deer were brought in. I am much engaged drawing
off a map. Captain Lewis also much engaged in preparing papers to
send back by a pirogue, which we intended to send back from the River
Platte. Observations at this place makes the latitude 41° 3' 19"
North.
This evening Goodrich
caught a white catfish, its eyes small and tail much like that of a dolphin.
The wind blustering and hard
from the south all day, which blew the clouds of sand in such a manner
that I could not complete my plan in the tent. The boat rolled in such
a manner that I could do nothing in that, and was compelled to go to the
woods and combat the mosquitoes. I opened the tumor of a man, on the left
breast, which discharged half a pint.
Five beaver caught near the camp,
the flesh 3 of which we made use of. This evening we found very pleasant.
Only one deer killed today. The country back from camp on the S.S. is a
bottom about 5 miles wide-one-half the distance woods and the balance plain
high and dry. The opposite side, a high hill-about 170 foot-rock foundation
covered with timber. Back and below is a plain.
Sent a Frenchman, La Liberte,
with the Indian to Otos' camp to invite the Indians to meet us on
the river above. A dark, rainy morning; wind from the W.N.W., rained all
the last night. Set out at 5 o'clock opposite the island-the bend to the
right or S.S. within 20 feet of Indian Knob Creek. The water of
this creek is 5 feet higher than that of the river. Past the island we
stopped to dine under some high trees near the high land on the L.S. In
a few minutes, caught three very large catfish, one nearly white. Those
fish are in great plenty on the sides of the river and very fat. A quart
of oil came out of the surplus fat of one of those fish.
Set out this morning early. Proceeded
on to a clear open prairie on the L.S. on a rise of about 70 feet higher
than the bottom, which is also a prairie (both forming bluffs to the river)
of high grass and plum bush, grapes, &c., and situated above high water.
In a small grove of timber at the foot of the rising ground, between those
two prairies, and below the bluffs of the high prairie, we came to and
formed a camp, intending to wait the return of the Frenchman and Indians.
The white horse which we found near the Kansas River died last night.
Posted out our guard, and sent
out four men. Captain Lewis and I went up the bank and walked a
short distance in the high prairie. This prairie is covered with grass
ten or twelve inches in height; soil of good quality; and at the distance
of about a mile further back, the country rises about 80 or 90 feet higher,
and is one continued plain as far as can be seen. From the bluff on the
second rise immediately above our camp, the most beautiful prospect of
the river, up and down, and the country opposite, presented itself, which
I ever beheld.
A fair day. Three hunters out.
Took meridian altitude, made the latitude 41° 18' 1 5/10"N. R.
and Jo. Fields returned to camp; they killed three deer. The horses
strayed off last night. Drouilliard killed a buck, one inch of fat
on the ribs. R. and Jo. Fields returned without any meat,
having been in pursuit of the horses. The Indians not yet arrived. Caught
a young beaver alive which is already quite tame. Caught a buffalo fish.
The evening very cool, the mosquitoes are yet troublesome.
A fair morning. Dispatched two
men after the horses lost yesterday. One man back to the place from which
the messenger was sent for the Otos, to see if any Indians were, or had
been, there since our departure. He returned and informed that no person
had been there since we left it. The prairie which is situated below our
camp is above the high-water level and rich, covered with grass from 5
to 8 feet high, interspersed with copses of hazel, plums, currants, like
those of the U.S.
A very pleasant breeze from the
S.E. The two men, Drouilliard and Colter, returned with the
horses loaded with elk. Those horses they found about 12 miles in a southerly
direction from camp.
The country through which they
passed is similar to what we see from camp. One beaver and a foot [of a
beaver caught in a trap] caught this morning.
At sunset, Mr. Fairfong
[Oto interpreter resident with them] and a party of the Oto and Missouri
Nations came to camp. Among those Indians, six were chiefs (not the principal
chiefs). Captain Lewis and myself met those Indians and informed
them we were glad to see them, and would speak to them tomorrow. Sent them
some roasted meat, pork, flour and meal. In return, they sent us watermelons.
Every man on his guard and ready for anything.
Made up a small present for those
people in proportion to their consequence; also a package with a medal
to accompany a speech for the grand chief. After breakfast, we collected
those Indians under an awning of our mainsail. In presence of our party,
paraded, and delivered a long speech to them, expressive of our journey,
the wishes of our government, some advice to them, and directions how they
were to conduct themselves. The principal chief for the nation being absent,
we sent him the speech, flag, medal, and some clothes. After hearing what
they had to say, delivered a medal of second grade to one for the Otos
and one for the Missouris, and presented four medals of a third grade to
the inferior chiefs-two for each tribe. Those two parts of nations, Otos
and Missouris, now residing together are about 250 men, the Otos composing
2/3 and the Missouris 1/3 part.
Those chiefs all delivered a
speech, acknowledging their approbation to the speech and promising to
pursue the advice and directions given them, that they were happy to find
that they had fathers which might be depended on, &c.
We gave them a canister of powder
and a bottle of whiskey, and delivered a few presents to the whole, after
giving a breech cloth some paint, gartering, and a medal to those we made
chiefs. After Captain Lewis's shooting the air gun a few shots (which
astonished those natives), we set out, and proceeded on five miles, on
a direct line past a point on the S.S. and around a large sand bar on the
L.S., and camped on the upper point. The mosquitoes excessively troublesome
this evening. Great appearance of wind and rain to the N.W. We prepare
to receive it. The man Liberte whom we sent for the Otos has not
come up. He left the Otos' town one day before the Indians. This man has
either tired his horse, or lost himself in the plains. Some Indians are
to hunt for him.
Set out early. Great appearance
of wind and rain. I have observed that thunder and lightning is not as
common in this country as it is in the Atlantic states. Snakes are
not plenty; one was killed today, large, and resembling the rattlesnake,
only something lighter. I walked on shore this evening, S.S. In pursuing
some turkeys, I struck the river twelve miles below within 370 yards. The
high water passes through this peninsula, and agreeable to the customary
changes of the river, I should conclude that in two years the main current
of the river will pass through. In every bend the banks are falling in
from the current being thrown against those bends by the sand points which
enlarge, and the soil, I believe, from unquestionable appearances of the
entire bottom, from one hill to the other, being the mud or ooze of the
river at some former period, mixed with sand and clay, easily melts and
slips into the river, and the mud mixes with the water, and the sand is
washed down and lodges on the points. Great quantities of grapes on the
banks. I observe three different kinds, at this time ripe; one of the number
is large and has the flavor of the purple grape. Camped on the S.S. The
mosquitoes very troublesome. The man who went back after his knife has
not yet come up. We have some reasons to believe he has deserted.
Last night at 8 o'clock a storm
from the N.W. which lasted 3/4 of an hour. Set out late this morning. Wind
from the north. At one o'clock, dispatched George Drouilliard, R. Fields,
William Bratton, and William Labiche back after the deserter,
Reed, with order if he did not give up peaceably to put him to death;
to go to the Otos' village and inquire for La Liberte, and bring
him to the Maha village, also with a speech on the occasion to the
Otos and Missouris, and directing a few of their chiefs to come to the
Mahas, and we would make a peace between them and the Mahas and Sioux,
a string of wampum and a carrot of tobacco. Proceeded on and camped on
the S.S.
Set out this morning at the usual
time. At two miles, passed a bend to L.S. choked up with snags. Our boat
ran on two, in turning to pass through. We got through with safety.
Captain Lewis took median
altitude of the sun, made it 56° 9' 00", latitude 41 ° 42' 34".
And I took one man and went on shore. The man killed an elk. I fired four
times at one and did not kill him; my ball being small, I think, was the
reason. The mosquitoes so bad in the prairies that with the assistance
of a bush I could not keep them out of my eyes. The boat turned several
times today on sand bars. In my absence, the boat passed an island two
miles above the Little Sioux River. On the upper point of this island,
some hundreds of pelicans were collected. They left three fish on the sand
which were very fine. Captain Lewis killed one and took his dimensions.
I joined the boat and we camped on the S.S. Worthy of remark that snakes
are not plenty in this part of the Missouri.
About daylight this morning a
hard wind from the N.W., with some rain. Proceeded on around the right
of the island.
A hard wind accompanied with
rain from the S.E. After the rain was over, Captain Lewis, myself,
and ten men ascended the hill on the L.S. (under which there were some
fine springs) to the top of a high point where the Maha king Blackbird
was buried four years ago. [Died of smallpox.] A mound of earth about 12
feet diameter at the base and 6 feet high is raised over him surfed, and
a pole 8 feet high in the center. On this pole we fixed a white flag, bound
with red, blue, and white. This hill about 300 feet above the water forming
a bluff, between that and the water, of various heights from 40 to 150
feet-yellow soft sandstone. From the top of this knoll, the river may be
seen meandering for 60 or 70 miles.
A fine morning. Wind from the
S.E. The men sent to the Maha town last evening have not returned.
We conclude to send a spy to know the cause of their delay. At about 12
o'clock, the party returned and informed us that they could not find the
Indians, nor any fresh sign. Those people have not returned from their
buffalo hunt. Those people, having no houses, no corn or anything more
than the graves of their ancestors to attach them to the old villager continue
in pursuit of the buffalo longer than others who have greater attachments
to their native villages.
The ravages of the smallpox,
which swept off-about four years ago-400 men and women and children in
proportion, reduced this nation not exceeding 300 men, and left them to
the insults of their weaker neighbors, which before were glad to be on
friendly terms with them.
I went with ten men to a creek
dammed by the beavers about halfway to the village. With some small willows
and bark we made a drag, and hauled up the creek, and caught 318 fish of
different kinds, i.e., pike, bass, salmon, perch, red horse, small cat,
and a kind of perch called silverfish on the Ohio. I caught a shrimp
precisely of shape, size, and flavor of those about New Orleans
and the lower part of the Mississippi, in this creek, which is only
the pass or straight from [one] beaver pond to another and is crowded with
large mussels. Very fat ducks, plover of different kinds, are on those
ponds as well as on the river.
In my absence, Captain Lewis
sent Mr. Dorion, the Sioux interpreter, and three men to examine
a fire which threw up an immense smoke from the prairies on the N.E. side
of the river, and at no great distance from camp. The object of this party
was to find some bands of Sioux, which the interpreter thought were near
the smoke, and get them to come in. In the evening this party returned,
and informed that the fire arose from some trees which had been left burning
by a small party of Sioux who had passed [by that place] several days.
The wind, setting from that point, blew the smoke from that point over
our camp. Our party all in health and spirits. The men sent to the Otos
and in pursuit of the deserter, Reed, have not yet returned or joined
our party.
A very cool morning, the wind
as usual from the N.W. Captain Lewis took twelve men and went to
the pond and creek between camp and the old village, and caught upwards
of 800 fine fish: 79 pike, 8 salmon resembling trout [8 fish resembling
salmon trout], 1 rock, 1 flat back, 127 buffalo and red horse, 4 bass,
and 490 cats, with many small silver fish and shrimp. I had a mast made
and fixed to the boat today. The party sent to the Otos not yet joined
us. The wind shifted around to the S.E. Every evening a breeze rises which
blows off the mosquitoes and cools the atmosphere.
A fine morning, the wind from
the S.E. I collected a grass much resembling wheat in its growth, the grain
like rye, and also some resembling rye and barley. A kind of timothy, the
seed of which branches from the main stalk and is more like a flaxseed
than that of timothy.
At six o'clock this evening,
Labiche, one of the party sent to the Otos, joined and informed
that the party was behind with one of the deserters, M. B. Reed,
and the three principal chiefs of the Nations. La Liberte they caught,
but he deceived them and got away. The object of those chiefs coming forward
is to make peace with the Mahas through us. As the Mahas are not at home,
this great object cannot be accomplished at this time. Set the prairies
on fire to bring the Mahas and Sioux if they were near, this being the
usual signal.
A cool evening; two beaver caught
today.
A fine morning. Wind from the
S.E. In the after part of the day, the party with the Indians arrived.
We met them under a shade near the boat, and after a short talk we gave
them provisions to eat and proceeded to the trial of Reed. He confessed
that he "deserted and stole a public rifle, shot-pouch, powder and ball,"
and requested that we would be as favorable with him as we could, consistently
with our oaths, which we were, and only sentenced him to run the gauntlet
four times through the party, and that each man with switches should punish
him, and for him not to be considered in future as one of the party. The
three principal chiefs petitioned for pardon for this man. After we explained
the injury such men could do them by false representations, and explained
the customs of our country, they were all satisfied with the propriety
of the sentence, and were witnesses to the punishment. After which we had
some talk with the chiefs about the origin of the war between them and
the Mahas, &c.
Captain Lewis's birthday.
The evening was closed with an extra gill of whiskey, and a dance until
11 o'clock.
A fine morning. Wind from the
S.E. Prepared a small present for the chiefs and warriors present. The
main chief breakfasted with us and begged for a sun glass. Those people
are all naked, covered only with breechclouts, blankets, or buffalo robes-the
flesh side painted with different colors and figures. At ten o'clock we
assembled the chiefs and warriors, nine in number, under an awning, and
Captain Lewis and I explained the speech sent to the nation from
the Council Bluffs by Mr. Faufon. The three chiefs and all
the men or warriors made short speeches approving the advice and council
their Great Father had sent them, and concluded by giving themselves some
credit for their acts.
We then brought out the presents
and exchanged The Big Horse's medal and gave him one equal to the
one sent to the Little Thief, and gave all some small articles and
eight carrots of tobacco. We gave one small medal to one of the chiefs
and a certificate to the others, of their good intentions.
One of those Indians after receiving his certificate, delivered it again
to me-The Big Blue Eyes. The chief petitioned for the certificate
again. We would not give the certificate, but rebuked them very roughly
for having in object goods and not peace with their neighbors. This language
they did not like at first, but at length all petitioned for us to give
back the certificate to The Big Blue Eyes. He came forward and made
a plausible excuse. I then gave the certificate to the great chief to bestow
it to the most worthy. They gave it to him. We then gave them a dram and
broke up the council.
The chiefs requested we would not leave them this evening. We determined
to set out early in the morning. We showed them many curiosities, and the
air gun, which they were much astonished at. Those people begged much for
whiskey. Sergeant Floyd is taken very bad all at once with a bilious
colic. We attempt to relieve him without success as yet. He gets worse
and we are much alarmed at his situation. All attention to him.
Sergeant Floyd much weaker and no better. Made Mr. Faufon,
the interpreter, a few presents and the Indians a canister of whiskey.
We set out under a gentle breeze from the S.E., and proceeded on very well.
Sergeant Floyd as bad as he can be, no pulse, and nothing will stay a moment
on his stomach or bowels. Passed two islands on the S.S. Sergeant Floyd
died with a great deal of composure. Before his death, he said to me, "I
am going away-I want you to write me a letter." We buried him on the top
of the bluff a half mile below a small river to which we gave his name.
He was buried with the honors of war, much lamented. A cedar post with
the name:
was fixed at the head of his grave. This man at all times gave us proof
of his firmness, and determined resolution to do service to his country,
and honor to himself. After paying all the honor to our deceased brother,
we camped in the mouth of Floyd's River, about 30 yards wide. A
beautiful evening.
Set out early. Wind from the south. At three miles, we landed at a bluff
where the two men sent with the horses were waiting with two deer. By examination,
this bluff contained alum, copperas, cobalt, pyrites; an alum rock, soft
and sand stone. Captain Lewis, in proving the quality of those minerals,
was near poisoning himself by the fumes and taste of the cobalt, which
had the appearance of soft isinglass. Copperas and alum are very poisonous.
Above this bluff a small creek comes in from the L.S., passing under the
cliff for several miles.
Captain Lewis took a dose of salts to work off the effects of
the arsenic. We camped on the S.S. Sailed the greater part of this day
with a hard wind from the S.E. Great deal of elk sign and great appearance
of wind from the N.W.
Ordered a vote for a sergeant to choose one of three which may be the
highest number. The highest numbers are P. Gass (had 19 votes),
Bratton, and Gibson.
Set out this morning very early. The two men with the horses did not
come up last night. I walked on shore and killed a fat buck. J. Fields
sent out to hunt; came to the boat and informed that he had killed a buffalo
in the plain ahead. Captain Lewis took twelve men and had the buffalo
brought to the boat. In the next bend to the S.S., two elk swam the river,
and were fired at from the boat. R. Fields came up with the horses
and brought two deer. One deer killed from the boat. Several prairie wolves
seen today. Saw elk standing on the sand bar. The wind blew hard and raised
the sands off the bar in such clouds that we could scarcely see. This sand,
being fine and very light, stuck to everything it touched, and in the plain
for half a mile-the distance I was out-every spire of grass was covered
with sand or dirt.
Some rain last night. A continuation this morning. We set out at the
usual time and proceeded on the course of last night, to the commencement
of a blue clay bluff 180 or 190 feet high on the L.S. Those bluffs appear
to have been latterly on fire and at this time are too hot for a man to
bear his hand in the earth at any depth. Great appearance of coal. An immense
quantity of cobalt, or a crystalized substance which answers its description,
is on the face of the bluff.
Great quantities of a kind of berry resembling a currant, except double
the size, and grows on a bush like a privet, and the size of a damson,
deliciously flavored, and makes delightful tarts. This fruit is now ripe.
I took my servant (York) and a French boy and walked on shore. Killed
two buck elks and a fawn, and intercepted the boat, and had all the meat
butchered and in by sunset, at which time it began to rain and rained hard.
Captain Lewis and myself walked out and got very wet. A cloudy,
rainy night. In my absence, the boat passed a small river, called by the
Indians Whitestone River. This river is about 30 yards wide, and
runs through a plain or prairie in its whole course.
In a northerly direction from the mouth of this creek, in an immense
plain, a high hill is situated, and appears of a conic form, and by the
different nations of Indians in this quarter, is supposed to be the residence
of devils: that they are in human form with remarkable large heads, and
about 18 inches high, that they are very watchful, and are armed with sharp
arrows with which they can kill at a great distance. They are said to kill
all persons who are so hardy as to attempt to approach the hill. They state
that tradition informs them that many Indians have suffered by those little
people, and, among others, three Maha men fell a sacrifice to their merciless
fury not many years since. So much do the Maha, Sioux, Otos, and other
neighboring nations, believe this fable, that no consideration is sufficient
to induce them to approach the hill.
A cloudy morning. Captain Lewis and myself concluded to go and
see the mound which was viewed with such terror by all the different nations
in this quarter. We selected Shields, J. Fields, W. Bratton, Sergeant
Ordway, J. Colter, Carr, and Corporal Warfington and Frazer,
also G. Drouilliard, and dropped down to the mouth of Whitestone
River, where we left the pirogue with two men; and, at 200 yards, we
ascended a rising ground of about 60 feet. From the top of this high land,
the country is level and open as far as can be seen, except some few rises
at a great distance, and the mound which the Indians call "Mountain of
little people, or spirits." This mound appears of a conic form, and is
N. 20° W. from the mouth of the creek. We left the river at 8 o'clock.
At 4 miles we crossed the creek, 23 yards wide, in an extensive valley,
and continued on two miles further.
Our dog was so heated and fatigued, we were obliged to send him back
to the creek. At 12 o'clock we arrived at the hill. Captain Lewis
much fatigued from heat-the day, it being very hot, and he being in a debilitated
state from the precautions he was obliged to take, to prevent the effects
of the cobalt and mineral substance which had like to have poisoned him
two days ago. His want of water, and several men complaining of great thirst,
determined us to make for the first water, which was the creek in a bend
N.E. from the mound, about three miles. After a delay of about one hour
and a half to recruit our party, we set out on our return down the creek
through the bottom, of about one mile in width, crossed the creek three
times to the place we first struck it, where we gathered some delicious
fruit, such as grapes, plums, and blue currants. After a delay of an hour,
we set out on our back trail, and arrived at the pirogue at sunset. We
proceeded on to the place we camped last night, and stayed all night.
This mound is situated on an elevated plain in a level and extensive
prairie, bearing N. 20° W. from the mouth of Whitestone Creek
nine miles. The base of the mound is a regular parallelogram, the long
side of which is about 300 yards in length, the shorter 60 or 70 yards.
From the longer side of the base, it rises from the north and south, with
a steep ascent to the height of 65 or 70 feet, leaving a level plain on
the top 12 feet in width and 90 in length. The north and south parts of
this mound are joined by two regular rises, each in oval forms of half
its height, forming three regular rises from the plain. The ascent of each
elevated part is as sudden as the principal mound at the narrower sides
of its base.
The regular form of this hill would in some measure justify a belief
that it owed its origin to the hand of man; but as the earth and loose
pebbles and other substances of which it was composed bore an exact resemblance
to the steep ground which borders on the creek, in its neighborhood, we
concluded it was most probably the production of nature.
The only remarkable characteristic of this hill, admitting it to be
a natural production, is that it is insulated or separated a considerable
distance from any other, which is very unusual in the natural order or
disposition of the hills.
The surrounding plains are open, void of timber, and level to a great
extent; hence the wind, from whatever quarter it may blow, drives with
unusual force over the naked plains and against this hill. The insects
of various kinds are thus involuntarily driven to the mound by the force
of the wind, or fly to its leeward side for shelter. The small birds, whose
food they are, consequently resort in great numbers to this place in search
of them-particularly the small brown martin, of which we saw a vast number
hovering on the leeward side of the hill, when we approached it in the
act of catching those insects. They were so gentle that they did not quit
the place until we had arrived within a few feet of them.
One evidence which the Indians give for believing this place to be the
residence of some unusual spirits is that they frequently discover a large
assemblage of birds about this mound. This is, in my opinion, a sufficient
proof to produce in the savage mind a confident belief of all the properties
which they ascribe to it.
From the top of this mound, we beheld a most beautiful landscape. Numerous
herds of buffalo were seen feeding in various directions. The plain to
north, northwest, and northeast extends without interruption as far as
can be seen.
The boat under the command of Sergeant Pryor proceeded on in
our absence (after jerking 1 the elk I killed yesterday) six miles, and
camped on the larboard side. R. Fields brought in five deer. George
Shannon killed an elk buck. Some rain this evening.
We set the prairies on fire as a signal for the Sioux to come to the
river.
This morning the star called the morning star much larger than common.
G. Drouilliard came up and informed that he could neither find Shannon
nor horses. We sent Shields and J. Fields back to hunt Shannon
and the horses, with directions to keep on the hills to the Grand Calumet
above, on Riviere qui Court.
We set sail under a gentle breeze from the S.E. At seven miles, passed
a white clay marl or chalk bluff. Under this bluff, which is extensive,
I discovered large stone much like lime, encrusted with a clear substance
which I believe to be cobalt, also ore is embedded in the dark earth resembling
slate, but much softer. Above this bluff, we had the prairie set on fire
to let the Sioux see that we were on the river, and as a signal for them
to come to it.
At 2 o'clock, passed the mouth of river Jacques [or Yankton].
One Indian at the mouth of this river swam to the pirogue. We landed and
two others came to us. Those Indians informed that a large camp of Sioux
were on River Jacques, near the mouth. We sent Sergeant Pryor
and a Frenchman with Mr. Dorion, the Sioux interpreter, to the camp
with directions to invite the principal chiefs to council with us at a
bluff above, called the Calumet. Two of those Indians accompanied
them, and the third continued in the boat showing an inclination to continue.
This boy is a Maha, and informs that his nation were gone to the Pawnees
to make a peace with that nation.
Set out under a stiff breeze from the south, and proceeded on past a
willow island at two miles. Several sand bars. The river wide and shallow.
At four miles passed a short white bluff of about 70 or 80 feet high. Below
this bluff the prairie rises gradually from the water, back to the height
of the bluff, which is on the starboard side. Here the Indian who was in
the boat returned to the Sioux camp on the riverJacques. Captain
Lewis and myself much indisposed owing to some cause for which we cannot
account. One of the pirogues ran a snag through her and was near sinking,
in the opinions of the crew. We came to below the Calumet bluff
and formed a camp in a beautiful plain near the foot of the high land,
which rises with a gradual ascent near this bluff. I observe more timber
in the valleys and on the points than usual. The pirogue which was injured,
I had unloaded, and the loading put into the other pirogue, which we intended
to send back, and changed the crew. After examining her and finding that
she was unfit for service, determined to send her back by the party. Some
load which was in the pirogue much injured.
The wind blew hard this afternoon from the south. J. Shields
and J. Field, who were sent back to look for Shannon and
the horses, joined us and informed that Shannon had the horses ahead
and that they could not overtake him. This man not being a first-rate hunter,
we determined to send one man in pursuit of him, with some provisions.
The commanding officers direct
that the two messes who form the crews of the pirogues shall select each
one man from their mess for the purpose of cooking, and that these cooks,
as well as those previously appointed to the messes of the barge crew,
shall in future be exempted from mounting guard, or any detail for that
duty. They are therefore no longer to be held on the roster.
Some rain last night and this
morning. Sent on Colter with provisions in pursuit of Shannon.
Had a tow rope made of elkskin. I am much engaged in writing. At four o'clock,
P.M., Sergeant Pryor and Mr. Dorion, with five chiefs and
about 70 men and boys, arrived on the opposite side. We sent over a pirogue,
and Mr. Dorion and his son, who was trading with the Indians, came
over with Sergeant Pryor, and informed us that the chiefs were there.
We sent Sergeant Pryor and young Mr. Dorion with some tobacco,
corn, and a few kettles for them to cook in, with directions to inform
the chiefs that we would speak to them tomorrow.
Those Indians brought with them,
for their own use, 2 elk and 6 deer, which the young men killed on the
way from their camp, twelve miles distant.
Sergeant Pryor informs
me that when they came near the Indian camp, they were met by men with
a buffalo robe to carry them. Mr. Dorion informed they were not
the owners of the boats and did not wish to be carried. The Sioux's camps
are handsome-of a conic form, covered with buffalo robes painted different
colors, and all compact and handsomely arranged, covered all around. An
open part in the center for the fire, with buffalo robes. Each lodge has
a place for cooking, detached. The lodges contain from ten to fifteen persons.
A fat dog was presented as a mark of their great respect for the party,
of which they partook heartily, and thought it good and well flavored.
A very thick fog this morning.
After preparing some presents for the chiefs, which we intended to make
by giving medals, and finishing a speech which we intended to give them,
we sent Mr. Dorion in a pirogue for the chiefs and warriors, to
a council under an oak tree, near where we had a flag flying on a high
flagstaff. At 12 o'clock we met, and Captain Lewis delivered the
speech; and then made one great chief by giving him a medal and some clothes;
one second chief and three third chiefs; in the same way. They received
those things with the goods and tobacco with pleasure. To the grand chief
we gave a flag, and the parole [certificate] and wampum with a hat and
chief's coat. We smoked out of the pipe of peace, and the chiefs retired
to a bower, made of bushes by their young men, to divide their presents,
and smoke, eat, and council. Captain Lewis and myself retired to
dinner, and to consult about other measures. Mr. Dorion is much
displeased that we did not invite him to dine with us-which he was sorry
for afterward. The Sioux are a stout, bold-looking people; the young men
handsome and well made. The greater part of them make use of bows and arrows.
Some few fusees [rifles] I observe among them, notwithstanding they live
by the bow and arrow. They do not shoot so well as the northern Indians.
The warriors are very much decorated with paint, porcupine quills and feathers,
large leggings and moccasins-all with buffalo robes of different colors.
The squaws wore petticoats and a white buffalo robe with the black hair
turned back over their necks and shoulders.
After the Indians got their breakfast,
the chiefs met and arranged themselves in a row, with elegant pipes of
peace all pointing to our seats. We came forward, and took our seats. The
great chief, The Shake Hand, rose, and spoke at some length, approving
what we had said, and promising to pursue the advice.
Martoree, second chief (White
Crane) rose and made a short speech, and referred to the great chief,
Parnarnearparbe (Struck by the Pawnees). Third chief rose and made
a short speech, Areawecharche (The Half Man). Third chief rose and
spoke at some length to the same purpose. The other chief said but little.
One of the warriors spoke, after all were done, and promised to support
the chiefs. They promised to go and see their Great Father in the spring
with Mr. Dorion, and to do all things we advised them to do. And
all concluded by telling the distresses of their nation by not having traders,
and wished us to take pity on them. They wanted powder, ball, and a little
milk. [Rum: "milk of Great Father" means spirits.]
Last night the Indians danced
until late in their dances. We gave them [threw in to them as is usual]
some knives, tobacco, and bells, tape, and binding, with which they were
satisfied.
We gave a certificate to two
men of war, attendants on the chief. Gave to all the chiefs a carrot of
tobacco. Had a talk with Mr. Dorion, who agreed to stay and collect
the chiefs from as many bands of Sioux as he could this fall, and bring
about a peace between the Sioux and their neighbors, &c.
After dinner, we gave Mr.
Peter Dorion a commission to act with a flag and some clothes and provisions
and instructions to bring about a peace with the Sioux, Mahas, Pawnees,
Poncas, Otos, and Missouris, and to employ any trader to take some of the
chiefs of each, or as many of those nations as he could, particularly the
Sioux, down to Washington. I took a vocabulary of the Sioux language,
and the answer to a few queries such as referred to their situation, trade,
number, war, &c. This nation is divided into twenty tribes, possessing
separate interests. Collectively, they are numerous-say from two to three
thousand men. Their interests are so unconnected that some bands are at
war with nations with which other bands are on the most friendly terms.
This great nation, whom the French
have given the nickname of Sioux, call themselves Dakota-Darcotar.
Their language is not peculiarly their own, they speak a great number of
words which are the same in every respect with the Maha, Ponca, Osage,
and Kansas, which clearly proves that those nations, at some period not
more than a century or two past, are of the same nation. Those Darcotars,
or Sioux, inhabit or rove over the country on the Red River of Lake
Winnipeg, St. Peters, and the west of the Mississippi, above
Prairie du Chien, head of River Des Moines, and the Missouri
and its waters on the N. side for a great extent. They are only at peace
with eight nations, and, agreeable to their calculation, at war with twenty-odd.
Their trade comes from the British, except this band and one on Des
Moines who trade with the traders of St. Louis. The Sioux rove
and follow the buffalo, raise no corn or anything else, the woods and prairies
affording a sufficiency. They eat meat, and substitute the ground potato,
which grows in the plains, for bread.
In the evening, late, we gave
Mr. Dorion a bottle of whiskey, and he, with the chiefs, and his
son, crossed the river and camped on the opposite bank. Soon after night,
a violent wind from the N.W. with rain. The rain continued the greater
part of the night. The river a-rising a little.
Set out early. The wind blew
hard from the south. Goats, turkeys seen today. Passed a large island.
Opposite this island near the head, the Ponca River comes into the
Missouri from the west. This river is about 30 yards wide. Dispatched
two men to the Ponca village, situated in a handsome plain on the
lower side of this creek, about two miles from the Missouri. The
Ponca nation is small and, at this time, out in the prairies hunting the
buffalo. One of the men sent to the village killed a buffalo in the town,
the other a large buck near it. Some sign of the two men who are ahead.
A very cold morning. Wind S.E.
Set out at daylight. We landed after proceeding 5 1/2 miles, near the foot
of a round mountain, which I saw yesterday, resembling a dome. Captain
Lewis and myself walked up to the top, which forms a cone and is about
70 feet higher than the high lands around it. The base is about 300 feet.
In descending this cupola, discovered a village of small animals that burrow
in the ground. (Those animals are called by the French petit chien) Killed
one, and caught one alive, by pouring a great quantity of water in his
hole.
We attempted to dig to the beds
of one of those animals. After digging 6 feet, found, by running a pole
down, that we were not halfway to his lodge. We found 2 frogs in the hole,
and killed a dark rattlesnake near with a ground rat [or prairie dog] in
him. Those rats are numerous. The village of those animals covered about
4 acres of ground on a gradual descent of a hill, and contains great numbers
of holes on the top of which those little animals sit erect, and make a
whistling noise, and, when alarmed, step into their hole. We poured into
one of the holes 5 barrels of water without filling it.
Those animals are about the size
of a small squirrel, shorter [or longer] and thicker, the head much resembling
a squirrel in every respect, except the ears, which are shorter. His tail
like a ground squirrel, which they shake, and whistle when alarmed. The
toenails long. They have fine fur and the longer hair is gray. It is said
that a kind of lizard, also a snake, resides with those animals. [Did not
find this correct.] Camped.
Set out at sunrise, and proceeded
on past the head of the island, on which we camped. Passed three sand and
willow islands. The sand bars so numerous, it is not worth mentioning them.
The river shoal or shallow. Wind S.E. Came to and camped on a sand bar
on the L.S. Captain Lewis went out to kill a buffalo. I walked on
shore all this evening with a view to kill a goat or some prairie dogs.
In the evening after the boat landed, I directed my servant, York,
with me, to kill a buffalo near the boat, from a number then scattered
in the plains. I saw at one view, near the river, at least 500 buffalo.
Those animals have been in view all day, feeding in the plains on the L.S.
Every copse of timber appears to have elk or deer. D. killed 3 deer,
I killed a buffalo, York 2, R. Fields one.
A cloudy, dark morning. Set out
early, a gentle breeze from the S.E. Passed two small islands on the L.S.,
and one on the S.S. all in the first course at l01/2 miles. Passed the
lower point of an island covered with red cedar, situated in a bend on
the L.S. This island is about 2 miles in length. Below this on a hill on
the L.S. we found the backbone of a fish, 45 feet long, tapering to the
tail. Some teeth, &c. Those joints were separated, and all petrified.
Opposite this island, 1 1/2 miles from the river on the L.S., is a large
salt spring of remarkably salt water. One other, high up the hill, 1/2
mile, not so salt. We proceeded on, under a stiff breeze. Three miles above
Cedar Island, passed a large island on the S.S. No water on that
side. Several elk swam to this island. Passed a small island near the center
of the river, of a mile in length, and camped on one above, separated from
the other by a narrow channel. Those islands are called Mud Islands.
The hunters killed 3 buffalo and one elk today. The river is falling a
little. Great number of buffalo and elk on the hillside, feeding. Deer
scarce.
A cloudy morning. Set out very
early. The river wide, and shallow; the bottom narrow, and the river crowded
with sand bars. Passed the island on which we lay, at one mile. Passed
three islands-one on the L.S., and two on the S.S. Opposite the island
on the L.S., I saw a village of barking squirrels [prairie dogs], 970 yards
long and 800 yards wide, situated on a gentle slope of a hill. Those animals
are numerous. I killed four, with a view to have their skins stuffed.
Here, the man who left us with
the horses, 22 [16] days ago, George Shannon-he started 26th August,
and has been ahead ever since-joined us, nearly starved to death. He had
been twelve days without anything to eat but grapes and one rabbit, which
he killed by shooting a piece of hard stick in place of a ball. This man,
supposing the boat to be ahead, pushed on as long as he could. When he
became weak and feeble, determined to lay by and wait for a trading boat,
which is expected, keeping one horse for the last recourse. Thus a man
had like to have starved to death in a land of plenty for the want of bullets
or something to kill his meat.
We camped on the L.S., above
the mouth of a run. A hard rain all the afternoon, and most of the night,
with hard wind from the N.W. I walked on shore the fore part of this day,
over some broken country, which continues about three miles back, and then
is level and rich-all plains. I saw several foxes, and killed an elk and
2 deer, and squirrels. The men with me killed an elk, 2 deer, and a pelican.
This morning set out at an early
hour and came to at 1/2 after 7 A.M. on the larboard shore 11/4 mile above
the mouth of a small creek which we named Corvus, in consequence
of having killed a beautiful bird of that genus near it. We concluded to
lay by at this place the balance of this day and the next, in order to
dry our baggage, which was wet by the heavy showers of rain which had fallen
within the last three days, and also to lighten the boat by transferring
a part of her lading to the red pirogue, which we now determined to take
on with us to our winter residence, wherever that might be. While some
of the men were employed in the necessary labor, others were dressing skins,
washing and mending their clothes, &c.
Captain Clark and myself
killed each a buck immediately on landing, near our encampment. The deer
were very gentle and in great numbers in this bottom, which had more timber
on it than any part of the river we had seen for many days past, consisting
of cottonwood, elm, some different ash, and a considerable quantity of
a small species of white oak, which was loaded with acorns of an excellent
flavor, having very little of the bitter roughness of the nuts of most
species of oak.
The leaf of this oak is small,
pale green, and deeply indented. It seldom rises higher than thirty feet,
is much branched; the bark is rough and thick, and of a light color. The
cup which contains the acorn is fringed on its edges, and embraces the
nut about one-half. The acorns were now falling, and we concluded that
the number of deer which we saw here had been induced thither by the acorns,
of which they are remarkably fond. Almost every species of wild game is
fond of the acorn-the buffalo, elk, deer, bear, turkeys, ducks, pigeons,
and even the wolves feed on them.
We sent three hunters out who
soon added eight deer and two buffalo to our stock of provisions. The buffalo
were so poor that we took only the tongues, skins, and marrow bones. The
skins were particularly acceptable as we were in want of a covering for
the large pirogue to secure the baggage.
Having for many days past confined
myself to the boat, I determined to devote this day to amusing myself on
shore with my gun, and view the interior of the country lying between the
river and the Corvus Creek. Accordingly, before sunrise, I set out
with six of my best hunters, two of whom I dispatched to the lower side
of Corvus Creek, two with orders to hunt the bottoms and woodland
on the river, while I retained two others to accompany me in the intermediate
country.
One quarter of a mile in rear
of our camp, which was situated in a fine open grove of cottonwood, passed
a grove of plum trees, loaded with fruit and now ripe. Observed but little
difference between this fruit and that of a similar kind common to the
Atlantic states. The trees are smaller and more thickly set. This forest
of plum trees garnish a plain about 20 feet more elevated than that on
which we were encamped.
This plain extends back about
a mile to the foot of the hills one mile distant, and to which it is gradually
ascending. This plain extends with the same breadth from the creek below
to the distance of nearly three miles above, parallel with the river, and
it is entirely occupied by the burrows of the barking squirrel heretofore
described. This animal appears here in infinite numbers. And the shortness
and verdure of grass gave the plain the appearance, throughout its whole
extent, of beautiful bowling green in fine order. Its aspect is S.E. A
great number of wolves of the small kind, hawks and some polecats were
to be seen. I presume that those animals feed on this squirrel. Found the
country in every direction, for about three miles, intersected with deep
ravines and steep irregular hills 100 to 200 feet high. At the tops of
these hills, the country breaks off as usual into a fine level plain extending
as far as the eye can reach. From this plain I had an extensive view of
the river below, and the irregular hills which border the opposite sides
of the river and creek.
The surrounding country had been
burnt about a month before, and young grass had now sprung up to a height
of 4 inches, presenting the live green of the spring; to the west a high
range of hills stretch across the country from N. to S., and appeared distant
about 20 miles. They are not very extensive, as I could plainly observe
their rise and termination. No rock appeared on them, and the sides were
covered with verdure similar to that of the plains. This scenery, already
rich, pleasing, and beautiful, was still further heightened by immense
herds of buffalo, deer, elk, and antelopes, which we saw in every direction,
feeding on the hills and plains. I do not think I exaggerate when I estimate
the number of buffalo which could be comprehended at one view to amount
to 3,000. My object was, if possible, to kill a female antelope, having
already procured a male. I pursued my route on this plain to the west,
flanked by my two hunters, until eight in the morning, when I made the
signal for them to come to me, which they did shortly after.
We rested ourselves about half
an hour, and regaled ourselves on half a biscuit each, and some jerks of
elk, which we had taken the precaution to put in our pouches in the morning
before we set out, and drank of the water of a small pool, which had collected
on the plain from the rains which had fallen some days before. We had now,
after various windings in pursuit of several herds of antelope which we
had seen on our way, made the distance of about eight miles from our camp.
We found the antelope extremely
shy and watchful, insomuch that we had been unable to get a shot at them.
When at rest they generally select the most elevated point in the neighborhood,
and as they are watchful and extremely quick of sight, and their sense
of smelling very acute, it is almost impossible to approach them within
gunshot. In short, they will frequently discover, and flee from, you at
the distance of three miles.
I had this day an opportunity
of witnessing the agility and the superior fleetness of this animal which
was to me really astonishing. I had pursued and twice surprised a small
herd of seven. In the first instance they did not discover me distinctly,
and therefore did not run at full speed, though they took care before they
rested to gain an elevated point where it was impossible to approach them
under cover, except in one direction, and that happened to be in the direction
from which the wind blew toward them. Bad as the chance to approach them
was, I made the best of my way toward them, frequently peeping over the
ridge with which I took care to conceal myself from their view. The male,
of which there was but one, frequently encircled the summit of the hill
on which the females stood in a group, as if to look out for the approach
of danger. I got within about 200 paces of them when they smelled me and
fled. I gained the top of the eminence on which they stood as soon as possible,
from whence I had an extensive view of the country. The antelopes, which
had disappeared in a steep ravine, now appeared at the distance of about
three miles on the side of a ridge which passed obliquely across me, and
extended about four miles.
So soon had these antelopes gained
the distance at which they had again appeared to my view, I doubted at
first that they were the same that I had just surprised, but my doubts
soon vanished when I beheld the rapidity of their flight along the ridge
before me. It appeared rather the rapid flight of birds than the motion
of quadrupeds. I think I can safely venture the assertion that the speed
of this animal is equal, if not superior, to that of the finest blooded
courser.
At half-past one o'clock this
morning the sand bar on which we camped began to undermine arid give way,
which alarmed the sergeant on guard. The motion of the boat awakened me.
I got up and by the light of the moon observed that the sand had given
way both above and below our camp, and was falling in fast. I ordered all
hands on, as quick as possible, and pushed off. We had pushed off but a
few minutes before the bank, under which the boat and pirogues lay, gave
way, which would certainly have sunk both pirogues. By the time we made
the opposite shore, our camp fell in.
We made a second camp for the
remainder of the night, and at daylight proceeded on to the gorge of this
great bend, and breakfast. We sent a man to measure (step off) the distance
across the gorge. He made it 2,000 yards. The distance around is 30 miles.
The hills extend through the gorge and are about 200 feet above the water.
In the bend as also the opposite sides, both above and below the bend,
is a beautiful inclined plain, in which there are great numbers of buffalo,
elk, and goats in view, feeding and sipping on those plains. Grouse, larks,
and the prairie bird are common in those plains.
We proceeded on, past a willow
island below the mouth of a small river, called Tylor's River, about
35 yards wide, which comes in on the L.S. 6 miles above the gorge of the
bend. At the mouth of this river, the two hunters ahead left a deer and
its skin, also the skin of a white wolf. We observe an immense number of
plover of different kinds collecting and taking their flight southerly;
also brants, which appear to move in the same direction. The catfish are
small and not so plenty as below.
The shore on each side is lined
with hard rough gulley stones of different sizes, which have rolled from
the hills and out of small brooks. Cedar is common here. This day is warm.
The wind, which is not hard, blows from the S.E. We camped at the lower
point of the Mock Island on the S.S. This now connected with the
mainland; it has the appearance of once being an island detached from the
mainland, covered with tall cottonwood. We saw some camps and tracks of
the Sioux which appear to be old, three or four weeks ago. One Frenchman,
I fear, has got an abscess on his thigh. He complains very much. We are
making every exertion to relieve him.
The prairies in this quarter
contain great quantities of prickly pears.
Passed an island situated nearest
the S.S., immediately above the last, called Cedar Island. This
is about 1 l/2 miles long and nearly as wide, covered with cedar. On the
south side of this island, Mr. Loisel, a trader from St. Louis,
built a fort of cedar and a good house, to trade with the Sioux, and wintered
last winter. About this fort, I observed a number of Indian camps in conical
form. They fed their horses on cotton limbs, as it appears. Here, our hunters
joined us, having killed two deer and a beaver. They complain much of the
mineral substances in the barren hills, over which they passed, destroying
their moccasins.
We proceeded on, and camped late
on the S. side, below a small island in the bend S.S., called Goat Island.
The large stones which lay on the sides of the banks in several places,
lay some distance in the river, under the water, and are dangerous.
I walked out this evening and
killed a fine deer. The mosquitoes are very troublesome in the bottoms.
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