Letters From An American Farmer
J. Hector St. John de Crevecoeur
LETTER XI.
FROM MR. IW-- N AL--Z, A RUSSIAN GENTLEMAN; DESCRIBING THE
VISIT HE PAID AT MY
REQUEST TO MR. JOHN BERTRAM, THE
CELEBRATED PENSYLVANIAN BOTANIST.
EXAMINE this flourishing province, in
whatever light you will, the eyes as well as the mind of an
European traveller are equally delighted; because a diffusive
happiness appears in every part: happiness which is established
on the broadest basis. The wisdom of Lycurgus and Solon,
never conferred on man one half of the blessings and uninterrupted prosperity which the Pennsylvanians now possess: the
name of Penn, that simple but illustrious citizen, does more
honour to the English nation than those of many of their kings.
In order to convince you that I have not bestowed undeserved
praises, in my former letters on this celebrated government; and
that either nature or the climate seems to be more favourable
here to the arts and sciences, than to any other American
province; let us together, agreeable to your desire, pay a visit to Mr. John Bertram, the
first botanist, in this new hemisphere: become such by a native
impulse of disposition. It is to this simple man that America is
indebted for several useful discoveries, and the knowledge of
many new plants. I had been greatly prepossessed in his favour
by the extensive correspondence which I knew he held with the
most eminent Scotch and French botanists; I knew also that he
had been honoured with that of Queen Ulrica of Sweden.
His house is small, but decent; there was something peculiar
in
its first appearance, which seemed to distinguish it from those
of his neighbours: a small tower in the middle of it, not only
helped to strengthen it but afforded convenient room for a
staircase. Every disposition of the fields, fences, and trees,
seemed to bear the marks of perfect order and regularity, which
in rural affairs, always indicate a prosperous industry.
I was received at the door by a woman dressed extremely neat
and simple, who without courtesying, or any other ceremonial,
asked me, with an air of benignity, who I wanted? I answered, I
should be glad to see Mr. Bertram. If thee wilt step in and take a
chair, I will send for him. No, I said, I had rather have the
pleasure of walking through his farm, I shall easily find him out, with your directions. After a little
time I perceived the Schuylkill, winding through delightful
meadows, and soon cast my eyes on a new-made bank, which
seemed greatly to confine its stream. After having walked on its
top a considerable way I at last reached the place where ten men
were at work. I asked, if any of them could tell me where Mr.
Bertram was? An elderly looking man, with wide trowsers and a
large leather apron on, looking at me said, "My name is
Bertram, dost thee want me?" Sir, I am come on purpose to
converse with you, if you can be spared from your labour.
"Very easily (he answered) I direct and advise more than I
work." We walked toward the house, where he made me take a
chair while he went to put on clean clothes, after which he
returned and sat down by me. The fame of your knowledge, said
I, in American botany, and your well-known hospitality, have
induced me to pay you a visit, which I hope you will not think
troublesome: I should be glad to spend a few hours in your
garden. "The greatest advantage (replied he) which I receive
from what thee callest my botanical fame, is the pleasure which
it often procureth me in receiving the visits of friends and
foreigners: but our jaunt into the garden must be postponed for
the present, as the bell is ringing for dinner." We entered into a
large hall, where there was a long table full of victuals; at the
lowest part sat his negroes, his hired men were next, then the
family and myself; and at the head, the venerable father and his
wife presided. Each reclined his head and said his prayers,
divested of the tedious cant of some, and of the ostentatious
stile of others. "After the luxuries of our cities, (observed he)
this plain fare must appear to thee a severe fast." By no means,
Mr. Bertram, this honest country dinner convinces me, that you
receive me as a friend and an old acquaintance. "I am glad of it,
for thee art heartily welcome. I never knew how to use
ceremonies; they are insufficient proofs of sincerity; our
society, besides, are utterly strangers to what the world calleth
polite expressions. We treat others as we treat ourselves. I
received yesterday a letter from Philadelphia, by which I
understand thee art a Russian; what motives can possibly have
induced thee to quit thy native country and to come so far in
quest of knowledge or pleasure? Verily it is a great compliment
thee payest to this our young province, to think that any thing
it exhibiteth may be worthy thy attention." I have been most
amply repaid for the trouble of the passage. I view the present Americans as the seed of future nations,
which will replenish this boundless continent; the Russians may
be in some respects compared to you; we likewise are a new
people, new I mean in knowledge, arts, and improvements. Who
knows what revolutions Russia and America may one day bring
about; we are perhaps nearer neighbours than we imagine. I
view with peculiar attention, all your towns, I examine their
situation and the police, for which many are already famous.
Though their foundations are now so recent, and so well
remembered, yet their origin will puzzle posterity as much as
we are now puzzled to ascertain the beginning of those which
time has in some measure destroyed. Your new buildings, your
streets, put me in mind of those of the city of Pompeia, where I
was a few years ago; I attentively examined every thing there,
particularly the foot-path which runs along the houses. They
appeared to have been considerably worn by the great number
of people which had once travelled over them. But now how
distant; neither builders nor proprietors remain; nothing is
known! "Why thee hast been a great traveller for a man of thy
years." Few years, Sir, will enable any body to journey over a
great track of country; but it requires a superior degree of
knowledge to gather harvests as we go. Pray, Mr. Bertram, what banks are those
which you are making: to what purpose is so much expence and
so much labour bestowed? "Friend Iwan, no branch of industry
was ever more profitable to any country, as well as to the
proprietors; the Schuylkill in its many windings once covered a
great extent of ground, though its waters were but shallow even
in our highest tides: and though some parts were always dry,
yet the whole of this great track presented to the eye nothing
but a putrid swampy soil, useless either for the plough or for
the scythe. The proprietors of these grounds are now
incorporated; we yearly pay to the treasurer of the company a
certain sum, which makes an aggregate, superior to the
casualties that generally happen either by inundations or the
musk squash. It is owing to this happy contrivance that so
many thousand acres of meadows have been rescued from the
Schuylkill, which now both enricheth and embellisheth so
much of the neighbourhood of our city. Our brethren of Salem
in New Jersey have carried the art of banking to a still higher
degree of perfection." It is really an admirable contrivance,
which greatly redounds to the honour of the parties concerned;
and shews a spirit of discernment and perseverance which is
highly praise-worthy: if the Virginians would imitate your example,
the state of their husbandry would greatly improve. I have not
heard of any such association in any other parts of the continent;
Pensylvania hitherto seems to reign the unrivalled queen of
these fair provinces. Pray, Sir, what expence are you at e'er
these grounds be fit for the scythe? "The expences are very
considerable, particularly when we have land, brooks, trees,
and brush to clear away. But such is the excellence of these
bottoms and the goodness of the grass for fattening of cattle,
that the produce of three years pays all advances." Happy the
country where nature has bestowed such rich treasures,
treasures superior to mines, said I: if all this fair province is thus
cultivated, no wonder it has acquired such reputation, for the
prosperity and the industry of its inhabitants.
By this time the working part of the family had finished their
dinner, and had retired with a decency and silence which
pleased me much. Soon after I heard, as I thought, a distant concert of instruments. However simple and pastoral your fare
was, Mr. Bertram, this is the desert of a prince; pray what is this
I hear? " Thee must not be alarmed, it is of a piece with the rest
of thy treatment, friend Iwan." Anxious I followed the sound,
and by ascending the staircase, found that it was the effect of the wind through the
strings of an Eolian harp; an instrument which I had never
before seen. After dinner we quaffed an honest bottle of
Madeira wine, without the irksome labour of toasts, healths, or
sentiments; and then retired into his study.
I was no sooner entered, than I observed a coat of arms in a gilt
frame with the name of John Bertram. The novelty of such a
decoration, in such a place, struck me; I could not avoid asking,
Does the society of Friends take any pride in those armorial
bearings, which sometimes serve as marks of distinction between families, and much oftener as food for pride and
ostentation ? "Thee must know (said he) that my father was a
French man, he brought this piece of painting over with him; I
keep it as a piece of family furniture, and as a memorial of his
removal hither." From his study we went into the garden, which
contained a great variety of curious plants and shrubs; some
grew in a green-house, over the door of which were written
these lines,
"Slave to no sect, who takes no private road,
"But looks through nature, up to nature's God!"
He informed me that he had often followed General Bouquet to Pittsburgh, with the view of herbalising;
that he had made useful collections in Virginia, and that he had
been employed by the king of England to visit the two Floridas.
Our walks and botanical observations engrossed so much of our
time, that the sun was almost down ere I thought of returning to
Philadelphia; I regretted that the day had been so short, as I had
not spent so rational a one for a long time before. I wanted to
stay, yet was doubtful whether it would not appear improper,
being an utter stranger. Knowing however, that I was visiting
the least ceremonious people in the world, I bluntly informed
him of the pleasure I had enjoyed, and with the desire I had of
staying a few days with him. " Thee art as welcome as if I was
thy father; thee art no stranger; thy desire of knowledge, thy
being a foreigner besides, entitleth thee to consider my house
as thine own, as long as thee pleaseth: use thy time with the
most perfect freedom; I too shall do so myself." I thankfully
accepted the kind invitation.
We went to view his favourite bank; he shewed me the
principles and method on which it was erected; and we walked
over the grounds which had been already drained. The whole
store of nature's kind luxuriance seemed to have been exhausted on these beautiful meadows; he made me
count the amazing number of cattle and horses now feeding on
solid bottoms, which but a few years before had been covered
with water. Thence we rambled through his fields, where the
right-angular fences, the heaps of pitched stones, the flourishing
clover, announced the best husbandry, as well as the most
assiduous attention. His cows were then returning home, deep
bellied, short legged, having udders ready to burst; seeking with
seeming toil, to be delivered from the great exuberance they
contained: he next shewed me his orchard, formerly planted on
a barren sandy soil, but long since converted into one of the
richest spots in that vicinage.
"This (said he) is altogether the fruit of my own
contrivance; I
purchased some years ago the privilege of a small spring, about
a mile and a half from hence, which at a considerable expence I
have brought to this reservoir; therein I throw old lime, ashes,
horse dung, &c. and twice a week I let it run, thus
impregnated; I regularly spread on this ground in the fall, old
hay, straw, and whatever damaged fodder I have about my barn.
By these simple means I mow, one year with
another, fifty-three hundreds of excellent hay per acre, from a
soil, which scarcely produced five-fingers [a small plant resembling strawberries] some years
before." This is, Sir, a miracle in husbandry; happy the country
which is cultivated by a society of men, whose application and
taste lead them to prosecute and accomplish useful works. "I am
not the only person who do these things (he said) wherever
water can be had it is always turned to that important use;
wherever a farmer can water his meadows, the greatest crops of
the best hay and excellent after-grass, are the sure rewards of
his labours. With the banks of my meadow ditches, I have
greatly enriched my upland fields, those which I intend to rest
for a few years, I constantly sow with red clover, which is the
greatest meliorator of our lands. For three years after, they
yield abundant pasture; when I want to break up my clover
fields, I give them a good coat of mud, which hath been
exposed to the severities of three or four of our winters. This is
the reason that I commonly reap from twenty-eight to thirty-six
bushels of wheat an acre; my flax, oats, and Indian corn, I raise
in the same proportion. Wouldst thee inform me whether the
inhabitants of thy country follow the same methods of
husbandry?" No, Sir; in the neighbourhood of our towns, there
are indeed some intelligent farmers, who prosecute their rural schemes with attention; but we should be too
numerous, too happy, too powerful a people, if it were possible
for the whole Russian Empire to be cultivated like the province
of Pennsylvania. Our lands are so unequally divided, and so few
of our farmers are possessors of the soil they till, that they
cannot execute plans of husbandry with the same vigor as you
do, who hold yours, as it were from the Master of nature,
unincumbered and free. Oh, America! exclaimed I, thou
knowest not as yet the whole extent of thy happiness: the
foundation of thy civil polity must lead thee in a few years to a
degree of population and power which Europe little thinks of !
"Long before this happen (answered the good man) we shall
rest beneath the turf; it is vain for mortals to be presumptuous
in their conjectures: our country, is, no doubt, the cradle of an
extensive future population; the old world is growing weary of
its inhabitants, they must come here to flee from the tyranny of
the great. But doth not thee imagine, that the great will, in the
course of years, come over here also; for it is the misfortune of
all societies every where to hear of great men, great rulers, and
of great tyrants." My dear Sir, I replied, tyranny never can take
a strong hold in this country, the land is too widely distributed: it is poverty in Europe that makes slaves. "Friend
Iwan, as I make no doubt that thee understandest the Latin
tongue, read this kind epistle which the good Queen of
Sweden, Ulrica, sent me a few years ago. Good woman! that
she should think in her palace at Stockholm of poor John
Bertram, on the banks of the Schuylkill; appeareth to me very
strange." Not in the least, dear Sir; you are the first man whose
name as a botanist hath done honour to America; it is very natural at the same time to imagine, that so extensive a continent
must contain many curious plants and trees: is it then surprising
to see a princess, fond of useful knowledge, descend sometimes
from the throne, to walk in the gardens of Linnaeus? " 'Tis to
the directions of that learned man (said Mr. Bertram) that I am
indebted for the method which has led me to the knowledge I
now possess; the science of botany is so diffusive, that a proper
thread is absolutely wanted to conduct the beginner." Pray, Mr.
Bertram, when did you imbibe the first wish to cultivate the
science of botany; was you regularly bred to it in Philadelphia ?
"I have never received any other education than barely reading
and writing; this small farm was all the patrimony my father
left me, certain debts and the want of meadows kept me rather low in the beginning of my life; my
wife brought me nothing in money, all her riches consisted in
her good temper and great knowledge of housewifery. I
scarcely know how to trace my steps in the botanical career;
they appear to me now like unto a dream: but thee mayest rely
on what I shall relate, though I know that some of our friends
have laughed at it." I am not one of those people, Mr. Bertram,
who aim at finding out the ridiculous in what is sincerely and
honestly averred. "Well, then, I'll tell thee: One day I was very
busy in holding my plough (for thee seest that I am but a
ploughman) and being weary I ran under the shade of a tree to
repose myself. I cast my eyes on a daisy, I plucked it
mechanically and viewed it " with more curiosity than common
country farmers are wont to do; and observed therein very many
distinct parts, some perpendicular, some horizontal. What a
shame, said my mind, or somthing that inspired my mind, that
thee shouldest have employed so many years in tilling the earth
and destroying so many flowers and plants, without being acquainted with their structures and their uses! This seeming
inspiration suddenly awakened my curiosity, for these were not
thoughts to which I had been accustomed. I returned to my team, but this new desire did not quit my mind; I mentioned
it to my wife, who greatly discouraged me from prosecuting my
new scheme, as she called it; I was not opulent enough, she
said, to dedicate much of my time to studies and labours which
might rob me of that portion of it which is the only wealth of
the American farmer. However her prudent caution did not
discourage me; I thought about it continually, at supper, in bed,
and wherever I went. At last I could not resist the impulse; for
on the fourth day of the following week, I hired a man to
plough for me, and went to Philadelphia. Though I knew not
what book to call for, I ingeniously told the bookseller my
errand, who provided me with such as he thought best, and a
Latin grammar beside. Next I applied to a neighbouring
schoolmaster, who in three months taught me Latin enough to
understand Linnaeus, which I purchased afterward. Then I
began to botanize all over my farm; in a little time I became
acquainted with every vegetable that grew in my
neighbourhood; and next ventured into Maryland, living
among the Friends: in proportion as I thought myself more
learned I proceeded farther, and by a steady application of
several years I have acquired a pretty general knowledge of every plant and tree to be found in our continent.
In process of time I was applied to from the old countries,
whither I every year send many collections. Being now made
easy in my circumstances, I have ceased to labour, and am
never so happy as when I see and converse with my friends. If
among the many plants or shrubs I am acquainted with, there
are any thee wantest to send to thy native country, I will chearfully procure them, and give thee moreover whatever directions
thee mayest want."
Thus I passed several days in ease, improvement, and pleasure;
I observed in all the operations of his farm, as well as in the
mutual correspondence between the master and the inferior
members of his family, the greatest ease and decorum; not a
word like command seemed to exceed the tone of a simple
wish. The very negroes themselves appeared to partake of such
a decency of behaviour, and modesty of countenance, as I had
never before observed. By what means, said I, Mr. Bertram, do
you rule your slaves so well, that they seem to do their work
with all the cheerfulness of white men? " Though our erroneous
prejudices and opinions once induced us to look upon them as
fit only for slavery, though ancient custom had very
unfortunately taught us to keep them in
bondage; yet of late, in consequence of the remonstrances of
several Friends, and of the good books they have published on
that subject, our society treats them very differently. With us
they are now free. I give those whom thee didst see at my table,
eighteen pounds a year, with victuals and clothes, and all other
privileges which white men enjoy. Our society treats them now
as the companions of our labours; and by this management, as
well as by means of the education we have given them, they are
in general become a new set of beings. Those whom I admit to
my table, I have found to be good, trusty, moral men; when
they do not what we think they should do, we dismiss them,
which is all the punishment we inflict. Other societies of
Christians keep them still as slaves, without teaching them any
kind of religious principles: what motive beside fear can they
have to behave well? In the first settlement of this province, we
employed them as slaves, I acknowledge; but when we found
that good example, gentle admonition, and religious principles
could lead them to subordination and sobriety, we relinquished
a method so contrary to the profession of Christianity. We gave
them freedom, and yet few have quitted their ancient masters.
The women breed in our families; and we become attached to one another. I
taught mine to read and write; they love God, and fear his
judgements. The oldest person among them transacts my
business in Philadelphia, with a punctuality, from which he has
never deviated. They constantly attend our meetings, they
participate in health and sickness, in fancy and old age, in the
advantages our society affords. Such are the means we have
made use of, to relieve them from that bondage and ignorance
in which they were kept before. Thee perhaps hast been
surprised to see them at my table, but by elevating them to the
rank of freemen, they necessarily acquire that emulation without
which we ourselves should fall into debasement and profligate
ways." Mr. Bertram, this is the most philosophical treatment of
negroes that I have heard of; happy would it be for America
would other denominations of Christians imbibe the same
principles, and follow the same admirable rules. A great number
of men would be relieved from those cruel shackles, under
which they now groan; and under this impression, I cannot
endure to spend more time in the southern provinces. The
method with which they are treated there, the meanness of their
food, the severity of their tasks, are spectacles I have not patience to behold. "I am glad to see that
thee hast so much compassion; are there any slaves in thy
country?" Yes, unfortunately, but they are more properly
civil than domestic slaves; they are attached to the soil on
which they live; it is the remains of ancient barbarous
customs, established in the days of the greatest ignorance and
savageness of manners ! and preserved notwithstanding the
repeated tears of humanity, the loud calls of policy, and the
commands of religion. The pride of great men, with the
avarice of landholders, make them look on this class as
necessary tools of husbandry; as if freemen could not
cultivate the ground. "And is it really so, Friend Iwan? To be
poor, to be wretched, to be a slave, are hard indeed; existence
is not worth enjoying on those terms. I am afraid thy
country can never flourish under such impolitic
government." I am very much of your opinion Mr. Bertram,
though I am in hopes that the present reign, illustrious by so
many acts of the soundest policy, will not expire without this
salutary, this necessary emancipation; which would fill the
Russian empire with tears of gratitude. "How long hast thee
been in this country?" Four years, Sir. "Why thee speakest
English almost like a native; what a toil a traveller must
undergo to learn various languages, to divest himself of his native prejudices,
and to accommodate himself to the customs of all those
among whom he chuseth to reside."
Thus I spent my time with this enlightened botanist this
worthy citizen; who united all the simplicity of rustic
manners to the most useful learning. Various and extensive
were the conversations that filled the measure of my visit. I
accompanied him to his fields, to his barn, to his bank, to his
garden, to his study, and at last to the meeting of the society
on the Sunday following. It was at the town of Chester,
whither the whole family went in two waggons; Mr. Bertram
and I on horse back. When I entered the house where the
friends were assembled, who might be about two hundred
men and women, the involuntary impulse of ancient custom
made me pull off my hat; but soon recovering myself, I sat
with it on, at the end of a bench. The meeting-house was a
square building devoid of any ornament whatever; the
whiteness of the walls, the conveniency of seats, that of a
large stove, which in cold weather keeps the whole house
warm, were the only essential things which I observed.
Neither pulpit nor desk, fount nor altar, tabernacle nor organ,
were there to be seen; it is merely a spacious room, in which
these good people meet every Sunday. A profound silence ensued, which lasted about
half an hour; every one had his head reclined, and seemed
absorbed in pro. found meditation, when a female friend arose
and declared with a most engaging modesty that the spirit
moved her to entertain them on the subject, she had chosen. She
treated it with great propriety, as a moral useful discourse, and
delivered it without theological parade or the ostentation of
learning. Either she must have been a great adept in public
speaking, or had studiously prepared herself; a circumstance
that cannot well be supposed, as it is a point, in their profession,
to utter nothing but what arises from spontaneous impulse: or
else the great spirit of the world, the patronage and influence of
which they all came to invoke, must have inspired her with the
soundest morality. Her discourse lasted three quarters of an
hour. I did not observe one single face turned toward her; never
before had I seen a congregation listening with so much
attention to a public oration. I observed neither contortions of
body, nor any kind of affectation in her face, stile, or manner of
utterance; every thing was natural, and therefore pleasing, and
shall I tell you more, she was very handsome, although
upward of forty. As soon as she had finished, every one
seemed to return to their former meditation for about a quarter of an hour; when they rose up
by common consent, and after some general conversation,
departed. How simple their precepts, how unadorned their
religious system: how few the ceremonies through which they
pass during the course of their lives! At their deaths they are
interred by the fraternity, without pomp, without prayers;
thinking it then too late to alter the course of God's eternal
decrees: and as you well know, without either monument nor
tomb-stone. Thus after having lived under the mildest government, after having been guided by the mildest doctrine, they
die just as peaceably as those who being educated in more
pompous religions, pass through a variety of sacraments,
subscribe to complicated creeds, and enjoy the benefits of a
church establishment. These good people flatter themselves,
with following the doctrines of Jesus Christ, in that simplicity
with which they were delivered: an happier system could not
have been devised for the use of mankind. It appears to be
entirely free from those ornaments and political additions which
each country and each government, hath fashioned after its own
manners.
At the door of this meeting house, I had been invited to spend
some days at the houses of some respectable farmers in the
neighbourhood. The reception I met with every where insensibly led
me to spend two months among these good people; and I
must say they were the golden days of my riper years. I never
shall forget the gratitude I owe them for the innumerable
kindnesses they heaped on me; it was to the letter you gave
me that I am indebted for the extensive acquaintance I now
have throughout Pennsylvania. I must defer thanking you as I
ought, until I see you again. Before that time comes, I may
perhaps entertain you with more curious anecdotes than this
letter affords. Farewell.
I----N AL----Z.4