From May 2 to May
7, 1927, New York City retail giant R.H. Macy's and Company held the Exposition
of Art in Trade to demonstrate the growing influence of merchants
over the design of manufactured products, the increased connection between
art and commerce, and the ability of consumers to fill their homes with
everyday beauty. To legitimize its role as cultural tastemaker, the department
store retained the Metropolitan Museum of Art to assist with the weeklong
exhibit and lecture series. Art in Trade proved a popular success,
and Macy's soon enjoyed the flattery of imitation as other stores, such
as Lord & Taylor's and Marshall Fields, followed suit with shows of
their own. However, the exposition also demonstrated that a large cultural
gap separated retailers from the artistic elite.
Macy's, a household
name in retail since 1858, lent its reputation and space to the exposition,
but its business executives remained noticeably absent from the actual
proceedings. The store attempted to fill the position of cultural arbiter,
but achieved this feat at a superficial level only. The catalog, which
was printed by the store but identifies no specific author, claims the
following as a purpose of Art in Trade: "to show actual exhibits
of modern products, each chosen to illustrate the new alliance between
the manufacturer and the arts" (3). Ironically, then, not even the
name of Macy's President Jesse Strauss appears within its pages. Metropolitan
Museum of Art President Robert DeForest served as chairman, stage designer
Lee Simonson filled the post of Art Director and Designer, and a plethora
of leaders within the art world rounded out the Advisory Committee. The
only evident business voice within the eleven-page brochure comes from
Secretary of Commerce Herbert Hoover, who comments:
I am greatly interested
in the whole subject of art and industry and an exhibit of the kind contemplated
by your committee because of its fine influence on cultural and educational
standards in this country. I feel that such an effort serves a peculiarly
useful purpose in its tendency toward the elimination of designs in our
production which on exhibit evidence the absence of those qualities which
make for artistic progress in industry (5).
The rather broad and somewhat
convoluted statement demonstrates the as yet strained relationship between
business and art. Hoover's difficulty in articulating the benefits of the
show mirrors Straus'--or any other Macy's administrator's--inability to define
a role, besides financier, for himself within the Art in Trade project.
The quote also is indicative of the struggle to justify machine-made products
as art. These, after all, were mostly commonly used items found in households
and stores across the United States, not elaborately framed and showcased
canvases from the European masters.
Although the Met played
a key role in the Macy's exposition, the advisory committee made a show
of legitimizing their effort to display household projects as serious
art. Records indicate that the Macy's people, who also wanted to showcase
their new West Building on Broadway and Thirty-fourth Street, incited
the project. Regardless of the motive, however, it is significant that
Art in Trade took place within a retail space and not a museum.
The public did not yet accept manufactured products as pieces of art,
and would not have supported such an event had it been solely museum-sponsored.
To boost the cultural aspect of the exhibition, DeForest invited international
submissions and mixed more conventional art--such as sculptures and paintings--with
glassware and furniture. For example, the catalog lists both Edward Steichen
and George Bellows as contributors, though the actual names of the included
pieces were omitted. DeForest's attempts to avoid offending art connoisseurs
seems to have succeeded. An announcement in the New York Times
recognized the primacy of modern machine art in the exhibit. However,
the writer carefully includes mention of more traditional forms: "[The
exhibition] will portray the application of modern, classic and primitive
art to objects of everyday use, the modern note predominating" ("To
Show Beauty of Art in Trade"). Still support for the machine-made
spectacle was apparent. A post-exhibition commentary in the same paper
proclaims: "This past week has seen an extraordinary movement in
art and an extraordinary triumph in the art of showing art. With concerted
action the museum, the theatre, modern interior decoration, dominated
that field and told the public precisely what to expect between the new
alliance between the manufacturer and the artist" (Cary). |
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The catalog offers
descriptions of neither the design of the installation nor the presentation
of the objects. However, contemporary observations indicated that the
exposition layout captured the essence of the machine by artfully displaying
raw manufacturing materials. To quote Times critic Elizabeth Cary
at some length:
If the effect desired
was dark marble with veins of gold as a background for our glorious modern
glass, and dark gold-veined marble was obviously out of the question, what
matter? To the artist of the theatre dark rubber floor covering streaked
with veins of gold did every bit as well--did for that matter ever so much
better--in meeting the fluent requirements of a temporary show. And again,
the panelings and frameworks of the rooms into which the exhibition gallery
was divided were affairs of angle and straight line, not a curve anywhere.
Two purposes were served. The keen, energetic spirit of modern art was embodied
and a great saving of labor and material was accomplished (Cary).
This observation eloquently
captures both the slowly developing appreciation for machine-made modern
art and the growing respect for function as well as form. Simonson's line-oriented
design filled all the available space, even the crevices that a curve-dominated
design would have sacrificed, and his rubber floor allowed for easy installment
and removal. Commenting on his use of "metals, asbestos, cork, and
other raw materials," the designer argued: "They have a beauty
of their own, and they also eliminate much of the labor that is necessary
for the finishing of woods" (American Store Window 28). |
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Despite the efforts of
DeForest and Simonson, however, the Macy's advisers deemed the exhibition
too weak to stand alone and offered verbal arguments, in the form of a lecture
series, as well. The six-day affair included no less than twenty talks, not
counting the opening address given by both DeForest and New York City Art
Council President John Finley. Topics of discussion ranged from "Taste
and Waste" and "Art for All of Us" to "Good Taste in Clothes"
and "The Skyscraper in Decoration" (R.H. Macy & Company). Only
on the final day was there "no afternoon program, the remainder of the
day being given over to inspection of the various exhibits" ("Art
in Trade Show Attracts Many").
Still Macy's and DeForest
took the first step toward commercializing art while aestheticizing modern
manufactured products. The retail outlet demonstrated both its influence on
the market and, therefore, its ability to sway the type and style of product
manufactured. Good Furniture magazine, which noted the immediate availability
of the displayed items, describes consumer interest in the new goods:
[T]he selling has eclipsed
the fondest expectations. Although manufacturers seem to see little in the
modern vogue, consumers eagerly snap up everything that is available. The
demand is unmistakable, but its volume may, of course, not be sufficient
to encourage commercial manufacturers. It does exist, though, and it seems
reasonable to think that volume will develop as soon as it is possible for
these demands to be fulfilled
. Macy's recognized this trend of public
taste and is prepared to profit by it (Qtd in Johnson 23).
It seems that most
critics, consumers, and retailers expected the popularity of machine art
to soar. Regardless of sales, though, perhaps no one fathomed the cultural
heights that not only furniture and lighting, but also ball bearings would
attain. |
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