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The paranoia over personal safety as well as the strict segregation of male and female bathers eventually passed, and by the turn of the century desegregated bathing was common, particularly at seaside resorts. Still, bathing apparel for women was only somewhat less voluminous than everyday street wear. Martin and Koda explain that the "long civil war of swimwear" went on for nearly three decades. In the early years of the twentieth century, women began to reveal their arms; by the 1920s the war intensified over the progressive revelation of women's legs; and by the 1930s the primary change in swimwear was that men began to go without shirts.

The one-piece bathing suit, which had been popularized by the champion swimmer and later star of vaudeville and motion pictures, Annette Kellerman, was legally banned in some parts of the country. Kellerman herself was arrested for indecent exposure when she first appeared in her "body stocking" style suit at Boston's Revere Beach in 1908, and responses toward her attire would not have been much different in many places throughout the United States until late in the 1920s. Not only was the sleek Kellerman-style suit physically freeing compared with the bulky yards of fabric in which women had formerly "bathed," but it was specifically problematic in that it quite clearly revealed the contours of the female figure. The suit was doubly offensive to some when stockings were eliminated or were not worn according to regulations, which usually meant they were rolled below the knees. In any case, the "Annette Kellerman," or more simply, the one-piece bathing costume, was considered the most daring kind of bathing apparel and therefore became the focus of many censorship efforts, not to mention sarcastic innuendo.