When trying to pinpoint the underlying current of cosmetic heritage, it is
important to trace how make-up and beauty were captured in different
cultures. African and Native Americans frequently used the concept of face
painting as a traditional representation of character and inner spiritual
sensations. Folk Cultures also had varied treatments from curing freckles to
skin disorders. For example, the Mexican Americans constantly prescribed the
"warm urine of a little boy" as a cure for freckles (Peiss 13). Likewise,
Englishwomen of the 1600 and 1700s would employ a "cosmetically physic" who
would gather herbs and home remedies to treat sickness and the existence of
skin and birth defects (Peiss 12).
Building on this sense of homemade exploration, many American women
experimented with their own kinds of cure-alls and beauty secrets. In a
common cookbook, one could expect to find recipes for lip balm and chocolate
chip cookies lying side by side. Beauty fell in the realm of household
utility and became another part of the community of women who would share
their recipes and goods with neighbors. Much like the oral traditions of the
past, these remedies would be passed down through word of mouth through
generations leaving their own stamp and altering the product into a sense of
perfection.
Many of these cures also brought in the sense of magical and superstituous use
of unique herbs and other strange concoctions. One special recipe
illustrates this by instructing readers to, "gather May dew (considered the
purest of waters) or invoke the curative powers of the spring by insisting on
strawberry-water, frog-spawn water, the juice from birch saplings, or the dew
from young vines" (Peiss 16). Clearly, the power of nature and the cycles of
its life were connected with the aesthetic sense of beauty and youthfulness
paralleled in the face of a woman.
With the advent of medical stringentness and scientific discoveries of the
Enlightenment, this legacy of magic and superstition disappeared from the
forefront of beauty. Instead, women were lectured on the importance of
breathing, eating, sleeping, and emotional stability. These habits derived
from the ancient tradition of the Humors linked the ideas of temperament and
health to the appearance of the skin. In this theory, the four humors or
bodily fluids - blood, phlegm, yellow bile, and black bile in turn produce
the human temperaments of sanguine, phlegmatic, choleric, and melancholic
that reveal themselves in the appearance and condition of the skin (Peiss
15). Therefore, the inner and outer dynamics of appearance and spirit were
inexorably tied and displayed themselves as such.